One Week Solo in Vietnam - On a Budget

Travel doesn’t have to be bougie and expensive, and most of the time when it’s done for show it’s difficult to really experience the culture. So, what’s the point? Now you’re out of pocket and your memories are mostly within the confinements of a resort, which we all know is not real life, and you’ve learned very little of how other people live, let alone enough to learn from them or be humbled in the small space you make up in the world. And if you lower your expectations and standards, you’ll find the world becomes a much more attainable place to witness. When an adventure is made public, it should be less of, “Look at how much money I have to do all these fancy things, maybe if you hustle then someday you can do it, too,” and more of, “Look at how resourceful you can be to experience all these different places right now while you’re still alive and healthy.” Don’t get me wrong, a nice relaxing vacation is something we all need as often as we can obtain one, but escaping the world at every opportune moment rather than blatantly facing it will never be enough for a lot of us- whether you’re a vacationer or a traveler. Even if you have to do so from a bunk bed in a blended hostel with curtain-covered beds, paper-thin walls, and shared bathrooms. But hey, at least breakfast is included, and laundry service is available. If you’re anything like me, you’ll sleep on floors if you have to, and all you really need is a backpack and some courage. There’s truly no greater reward than that of successfully navigating through a country on your own and leaving with a changed perception of the reality of the world we live in (except maybe raising kids, but I wouldn’t know yet).

Hanoi, Vietnam is a hectic, bustling city on the rise of its development, that can sometimes be overwhelming. Lively night markets bumping music until three A.M., nook-and-cranny shops and vendors lining crowded sidewalks behind rows of mopeds, street food stands placed every three car lengths apart, dark and narrow alleyways slivered between crumbling buildings, wheel and foot traffic passing just inches from your body, and baskets on baskets on wagons of fresh fruits, balloons, and other goods hauled through traffic for sale. Dodging mopeds has never been more fun.

This Southeast Asian country offers broad diversity from towering skyscrapers in Ho Chi Minh city, to enormous, lush mountains cascading into edge-of-the-world cliffs straight out of a film in Ha Giang, endless restaurants, bars, hostels, and shops in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, picturesque still waters with floating land masses in Ha Long Bay, and rolling hills of rice fields in Sa Pa resembling mazes of green. And those are just the highlights. I’ll go as far as to say it’s one of the most beautiful countries on the planet, if you can overlook and learn to navigate petty theft and scammy tourist traps.
And the food- your taste buds will never be the same again after eating real pho in a hole-in-the-wall twenty-square-foot mom and pop shop on the side of the road. You can always taste when a dish has been prepared with love… and lime.

Being a tourist in a developing country, it’s a crime not to acknowledge and appreciate the charm, strength, and pride of the indigenous locals as they continue building from the ruins of their young victory in achieving sovereignty.
A wonderful, affordable, and safe place for travelers from all over the world to explore, Vietnam is an excellent destination for budget solo travelers and backpackers, and it was certainly a learning experience for me.

***

I landed in the city of Hanoi by Noi Bai International Airport around two A.M. on a Sunday morning. I rushed through immigration after receiving my single-entry travel Visa on arrival, which I was granted after applying for a letter of approval from the Vietnam Immigration Office through a small local business out of Ho Chi Minh city, Emily Visa. The usual cost through her is USD $35.00 for that specific Visa, however I waited too long and had to pay extra for a rushed one, as well as the additional USD $25.00 at the immigration counter. This was still better than paying even more through a bigger agency and risking an error being made, slowing the entire process down as it’s happened to other travelers before.

Walking out of customs with my backpack and newly stamped passport, I reached for my phone and ordered a Grab to transport me to my hostel. Unfortunately, one of the easiest ways to get scammed in this country is by means of taxi. Grab (Southeast Asia’s Uber) is the safer route to go to ensure not overpaying. The Grab route has a fixed rate which you pay in cash, give your tip, then go on about your day.

As I arrived in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, roughly a half-hour drive from the airport, one of the worst things that could happen as a solo traveler, happened. I walked to the check-in desk at the hostel I booked two months ahead of time and was told my check-in time was not until two P.M., about eleven hours from then. I found myself stranded in the middle of a foreign country in the middle of the night with nowhere to go, absolutely exhausted after traveling for fifteen hours straight. It’s usually not a problem when booking a hostel with twenty-four-hour service, as they are aware that travelers will be arriving at all hours of the day and night, and I was certain I placed my arrival time accurately in my booking. However, they did not have an available bed as it was a busy season, and I should have booked my stay to begin the night before since I knew I was going to be landing in the wee hours of the morning.

Before allowing the panic to bubble up throughout my chest, I immediately got to work searching for another place to stay. One hour and four stop-ins later through the dimly lit and loud streets, I was lucky enough to find an available bed in an all-female dorm in a hostel down the road. Another perk of being a solo traveler, it’s fairly easy to get squeezed into things last minute since you’re just one body.

Stumbling into the dark dorm as quietly as I could so as not to wake the other travelers, I changed into pajamas and slumped into bed, sleep taking over my body within minutes. I slept for less than five hours, waking to the sounds of shuffling and turnover as a cleaning crew came in to change out a couple of the beds. I walked downstairs and extended my stay for the rest of the week and canceled the other booking. I liked it here; I felt safe here and something told me to stay here – Hanoi Solo Hostel. Breakfast was included of course, and I had one of the best rolls I’ve ever tasted one morning when I awoke hungover and desperate for some food and coffee.

I will say, that was a dumb mistake I do not regret. Dumb mistake because I did not cancel my other booking within the free cancellation period, however it only amounted to USD $27.00 and it was my error in judgement, so I let it go of course, but I do not regret it because I very much enjoyed my stay at a more relaxed hostel rather than one with a rooftop bar.

My first day around town was slow. I took my time walking the shops to find drinking water and a towel. While many places in Vietnam are very well-developed, it is still a developing country, so while the tap water is safe to bathe in and even brush your teeth with in the metropolitan areas, it is not safe to drink. I wasn’t out for long before finding what I needed and making it back to the hostel to slip into my rubber slippers for my first hot shower. It was everything I needed after a long night. The shared bathroom consisted of a toilet closed off by a door and a shower stall covered by a curtain. The other women left their products in the stall, and I did the same for the whole stay. It’s not unusual to have things stolen while staying in a hostel but for the most part, it’s not a common occurrence. Luckily this one provided lockboxes in the beds for the really important things like passports, batteries, iPad, etc. After my much-needed shower, I laid back down in an attempt to sleep a bit longer, but it never came to me and by now it was past lunchtime, and I was ready to hunt for some new foods.

I walked to the nearest ATM of one of the more trustworthy banks to draw out some more cash. I had only drawn out so much at the airport because I don’t like to have much cash on my person for fear of pickpockets and also because there’s no need for it in such a cheap country, especially when availability to withdraw more is so prominent. Be wary of pickpockets and phone-snatchers. The best banks: Vietcombank, BIDV, Agribank, Techcombank, Vietinbank, MBBank, ACB, VPBank, HDBank, and TPBank.* I found myself using Vietcombank and BIDV the most.

After adding more Vietnamese dong to my wallet, I set out in search of some grub. I walked into the tiniest restaurant not far from the hostel, Pho Coi. I ordered some pho ga with fried dough and a Saigon beer, and it was one of the best meals I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing. The thin, clear broth was like a warm hug from within and squeezing lime juice into it turned it into this citrusy parade in my mouth that danced with the glass noodles and paired perfectly with a cold beer. The entire meal cost me just 90.000 VND, or USD $3.55.

The rest of the day consisted of walking around, getting to know the Old Quarter, and getting a beer or two from several different spots as the sun went down and the night market came to life. I met a couple Vietnamese people, and learned very quickly that it is very common for them to sit very close to you regardless of how much room there is all around. I’ve heard several different theories on this, one being that they are trained to do this in order to leave room for bigger groups of people to enter spaces that are generally very small. Another one says that Vietnamese people are less self-aware when it comes to personal space than people in other cultures typically are. I liked it, we are social creatures as human beings after all. I also met a Ukrainian that had been living in Vietnam with a group of other travelers for the past six years, and they were getting ready to make their way to Argentina. Later that same night, I met a German whose wife and son were just down south in Ho Chi Minh, he was a chef, and this was their eighth or ninth time in Vietnam. We spoke a lot about different foods from around the world and how important it is to introduce your palate to new flavors.

I came to notice the next night just how many Italians I was happening upon. Frustratingly, I kept to myself for the most part being ashamed that I haven’t been able to speak in my native tongue since I was child, but I did get picked out from the crowd as a Neapolitan by one of them and we got to chat for a while. It was both of our first times in the country.

For two nights I walked the streets, people-watching, absorbing the foreign atmosphere and dodging mopeds and cars. People from all over the world sat in scattered chairs on the sidewalks and streets outside of bars and restaurants, chatting, laughing, observing. Music blasted from every direction, out of speakers and out of people; there was a karaoke scene on every corner. Some of the streets were quieter, where shops were closed, and the road was dimly lit with hanging lanterns and the cellphones of passersby. Vendors paraded their bikes around, selling all kinds of goods from trinkets to fruits. Personally, I’ll never turn down a fresh coconut.

Speaking of coconuts, I am a big coconut water drinker, and while it’s important to stay hydrated at all times in your life, it’s also important to give your body what it needs as the needs arise. So, with that being said, make sure you’re well-prepared for that on your trip. Pack your vitamins, probiotic, aspirin or ibuprofen, anti-diarrheal for those with digestive problems (remember, you’ll be in a foreign country eating foods your body is not used to), anxiety medications if necessary (so long as restrictions allow them to enter the country), and watchout for any issues with thrush as Vietnam is a subtropical climate. There are no needed vaccines to enter the country but do your research on what you could possibly contract, even the less likely diseases like Zika virus, Malaria, and Japanese Encephalitis. Being knowledgeable on how to avoid potential disease when traveling anywhere is a must for all travelers.

Flash-forward to a few mornings later, and I found myself getting out of bed, having a nice breakfast in the Melbourne-inspired brunch café, Lifted, while observing a man taking notes and wondering what he was working on, and making my way on a fifteen-minute walk to St. Joseph Cathedral. The nineteenth century Gothic Revival church was built between 1884 and 1886 by the government of French Indochina. Modeled after the Notre Dame de Paris, it stands as the cathedral of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese and oldest church in Hanoi. Truly a spectacular building to behold for anyone inclined to architectural mastery, it’s one of the most beautiful structures I’ve ever seen in person.

Shortly after witnessing the grand cathedral, I decided to make another half-hour trek to the Temple of Literature. A quiet, scenic walk-through of ponds, stellae, education pagodas and temples, it’s a garden of intellect that you don’t want to miss if you find yourself in Hanoi. Being a sacred place, be sure not to wear clothing that is too revealing as you will not be allowed entry. This isn’t just a case of modesty. Vietnam is a socialist republic operating beneath a one-party system led by the Communist Party. There are many restrictions in the country compared to a place like the U.S.A., so if you’re coming from there, it’s very important to keep in mind having respect for their rules. Vietnamese people are very prideful in their government, history, and war heroes, and if you get caught saying something bad about them or even making a joke, you can be arrested for that, even as a tourist. So, it’s best to stay humble and quiet, and keep your opinions to yourself when you’re visiting. And on a lighter note, you just don’t want to be that guy.

I spent the following couple of days aimlessly wandering the town, trying new foods like chicken bahn mi (a delicious sandwich- many restaurants offer tons of bread products, and you’ll see plenty of vendors hauling bags of loaves on their mopeds to sell to them at all hours of the day and night), a new coffee (Vietnamese salt coffee with caramel only costing 50.000 VND which is a must-try), drinking more beer and one mixed drink called a Green Fairy, and watching the crowds pass by; a woman selling cellphone gadgets to feed her family, another burning a fire in the middle of the road, another sitting quaintly outside of her restaurant eating a meal, tourists taking photos in front of the Culture Art Center, a man cutting coconuts for guests, a group of children with iPhones frolicking through the streets and taking photos with tourists, the elderly man at the register too frail to get my drink order and asking me to do it for him, couples and solos and groups of threes and five with their enormous backpacks, a woman in a window showing her baby the view, and traffic on traffic on traffic.

My last day in Hanoi was a Friday morning. I originally planned to catch a sleeper bus far up North to Ha Giang on the previous day, however I did not fall asleep until nearly four A.M. due to restlessness, music and horns, a dorm-mate sneaking someone in to sleep with them, and the one in the bunk below mine talking in her sleep in what seemed to be a serious conversation in a language I did not understand, but I believe it was Dutch. That day I slept until nearly one in the afternoon and spent the day relaxing in the common area on a bean bag after eating two meals. But when Friday came, I leapt out of bed, showered, and headed on a six-minute walk to the bus station to purchase my tickets.

The first ticket was on a six-and-a-half-hour VIP sleeper bus to take me into town, the second was on a seater bus for the evening of the following day to take me back down to the airport. The total cost was 750.000 VND. Doing things last minute has always been a terrible habit of mine, and it was shocking how well this plan worked in my favor. I checked out of my hostel two days early, and even received a bit of a refund for doing so, booked my stay at a new hostel for the night (Ha Giang hostel, also a recommendation as the staff was superb there as well), and even found a tour guide offering a one-day tour through the infamous Ha Giang loop deep in the mountains. It was slightly concerning, as none of the other tour guides I spoke with had heard of the indigenous locals operating under the name of Hmong Brothers and they only had about two reviews which were placed in the previous month, but my gut feeling felt good about them and boy, was it right. Not to mention, I was once again able to give my money to yet another very small local business, so it truly worked out. Sure, the Ha Giang loop typically takes three to four days to complete, and some guides offer two-day tours, but one day is still better than not seeing it at all. And had it not been for my biggest mistake on this trip – forgetting to book travel insurance, I would have rented my own motorbike, but I decided not to take the risk this time.

The bus ride proved to be worth the pay. The views traveling up North were spectacular and being able to lie down in privacy and watch the towns pass by was very relaxing. I watched the scenery change from more shops and restaurants to tall skyscrapers, thinning out to small huts with scattered boxes, fruit stands, construction equipment, locals gathered by fires together, streams, palms, and the mountainous ranges in the distance as night began to fall.

On our first bathroom break, I had a real heinous moment that accompanies the experience of budget travel. The bathroom was simply one door, five toilet bowls in the ground with no stalls, no toilet paper, and no soap to wash your hands with. We took turns closing the door. My biggest piece of advice when traveling through the rural areas of Vietnam – bring tissues, wipes, antibacterial soap, and hand sanitizer.

Another pit stop and bus change-out later, and I was dropped off at my accommodation for the night. The air was crisp and smokey, and there seemed to be nothing around. It was very quiet in this hostel, a bit more on the “luxury” side with its marble floors and outdoor pool. I was so tired and ready for another shower that upon check-in I immediately asked if there was a private room available. The last thing I wanted to do was share a bathroom with other travelers and lay quietly in my bed as sleep took me. To my delight, there was, and it truly felt like I was staying in a “real hotel.” The shower felt glorious in its sleek modern slate design with stone tile, and even more so considering I didn’t have to immediately dry off and put clothes on before exiting the bathroom. I definitely wished I would have arrived one day sooner because I honestly would have spent all day lounging in bed.

The next morning, I awoke ten minutes prior to my alarm clock to roosters, dogs, and construction noises. None of which I mind, though my mind did wander into a more sinister thought process. Unfortunately, dog meat trade is still something that is practiced in Vietnam. It is heavier in the Northern region closer to the Chinese border, but that does not mean it doesn’t happen in places where it is banned, like Hanoi. It is something that the government is attempting to limit, and most people are against it, but be sure to be wary as a traveler when finding places to eat, being familiar with the terms to avoid it. Most places do not offer things like dog and cat meat, and they are localized in specific areas and restaurants, so I believe (and from my personal experience) it is something that can be easily avoided.

I changed into my adventure clothes, packed my belongings back up, still to this day having no idea how I managed to unpack my entire backpack in the span of a few hours, headed to the fourth floor for some breakfast, took in the beautiful view over a cup of instant coffee that had no business being as delicious as it was, then checked out and left my things in the luggage hold to set out into the mountains. Dong, my guide, showed up on his motorbike at eight A.M. sharp, as they said he would. He fit me into a helmet, and after a quick stop for gas, we were bound by our exploit on some of the most dangerous roads in the country. We stopped by a few scenic points, and at each stop I was grateful to get off the bike and let my legs work. The cliffs and mountains and rice fields truly did seem to jump at me straight from a film, I couldn’t believe my eyes for the entirety of this excursion. It was like being thrown directly into a Jurassic movie, which is funny because I’ve actually lived where Jurassic was filmed and this was a much, much different mountainous region. There were so many animals around from dogs and cats to chickens and cows, ducks and goats, and I swear on my life I witnessed two dogs conjoined at the hips.

We hopped back on the bike, and he took me on one of the best waterfall hike trails I’ve ever been on. Steep and dangerous on the way down, rocky and cliffy where the lively waters fell over a log and into a stream of moss and clarity that would have made for a fabulous photograph if I possessed a real camera. The best part being that there was nobody around, so I got to experience the magic of this concealed spot in the peace and serenity of the winds and rushing waters. The hike back up was strenuous, and exactly what I needed as I did not dress warmly enough for this trip being at the end of November and the climate being much colder than the subtropical atmosphere further down South.

I felt like I was in some sort of Grimm Forest momentarily once we stopped to behold the two mountain humps of Fairy Bosom in the Tam Son Valley and reading the history behind the landmark, which sits at the base of a taller range, encompassing villages of a sea of houses with red roofs.

We drove for hours. Driving through small towns I don’t recall the names of, stopping in one for lunch the Vietnamese way where we shared from large bowls of different veggies, chicken, beef, tofu, rice, soup, and sauces, and stopping in another to witness the Hmong hemp weaving process by hand. Truly a sight to see and something that makes you appreciate those handmade bags and tapestries much more. It was a different culture field trip equivalent to that of the Conner Prairie days we took as children from school in the Midwest, except this is a process they still use to this day. I bought one small crossbody bag and an Auntie was so grateful she stopped me to give me a free cushion bracelet and to tell me something about her grandmother, which I entirely missed and I’m very upset that I will never know what she was trying to tell me.

I was very grateful to be led on this trip by Dong. He was a wonderful guide, and though his English was limited, I found our communication to be just fine. I also learned he spoke Vietnamese, Dao, Hmong, Thai, and even some Chinese. That was very impressive.

A few more hours and views that I will never forget later, it was time to return to the hostel, catch the bus back to the airport, and say goodbye to Vietnam until the next time. This trip was one of the greatest adventures of my life, and I truly hope you’ve gained something of value by reading through this, whether it is for research or entertainment. Please check out the accompanying Youtube vlog as well. Happy and safe travels, friends!

*- The most reliable banks in Vietnam according to Vietnam Report JSC 2024.

Here is the cost breakdown for my stay (calculated based on foreign exchange rate as of 11.24.2024):

⁃ Round-trip ticket from Naha to Hanoi: $272
⁃ 1 month single-entry eVisa: $65 LOA (rushed for urgent delivery of 3 working days, normally about $35 - that was my mess-up) + $25 official Visa stamp
⁃ Hostel stay for the week: 1.050.000 VND ($41.13 Hanoi) TOTAL + 600.000 VND night in Ha Giang ($23.60) (not including my hiccup with the first hostel)
⁃ Food and drink (to the best of my memory and note-taking, keeping in mind- lots of beer [though the beer I found myself drinking mostly ranged from 20.000-25.000 VND or $0.79-$0.98]): 1.950.000 VND ($76.71)
⁃ Transportation (Grab [Southeast Asia’s Uber] and sleeper/seater buses): 1.063.000 VND ($41.82) + tip
⁃ Attractions/Guides: 1.674.300 VND ($65.87) + tip
⁃ Souvenirs/Misc.: 1.333.000 VND ($52.44)

(These expenses do not include overseas ATM fees ranging from 4-5% plus withdrawal fee from your own bank, tips, airport lounge food/drink, etc.)

= $663.57 USD TOTAL (and that’s after “splurging” on a couple of things.)

LINKS:

Emily Visa FB page: https://www.facebook.com/share/1D3jmxKR57/?mibextid=LQQJ4d

Hanoi Solo Hostel: https://g.co/kgs/6AgXKG9

Bang Phan buses: https://vietnam-transports.com/product-category/bus/bang-phan-bus

Ha Giang Hostel: https://hagianghostel.com/

Hmong Brothers FB page: https://www.facebook.com/share/12Cp9Mfj5wV/?mibextid=LQQJ4d